From the Karoo village of Prince Albert in the north and Oudtshoorn in the south, the Swartberg Pass ascends in a series of outrageous loops and turns. Approaching the summit, a seemingly innocuous road leads off and lures the unwitting Budget explorer down a passage from Dante’s Inferno – a thin zigzagging track to nowhere. Happily, the road does lead somewhere, to a verdant 20km cul-de-sac known as Gamkaskloof (Valley of the Lions), or more popularly as Die Hel. Why Die Hel we don’t know, because after the road in it is the next best thing to heaven. Once an isolated farming community blissfully cut off from the outside world, with its own school and self-subsisting economy, Gamkaskloof is today a CapeNature reserve featuring a campsite, a dozen or so guest cottages, a sprinkling of permanent residents and an atmosphere still smouldering in exaggerated myth.