One's first experience of Sedgefield (480km from Cape Town) is of a holiday town with not much to recommend it. But, off the N2 and away from the bland façade of cheap curio shops, unenticing B&Bs and square 70s architecture, past the pseudo-Roman Pretoria palaces sprouting here, there and everywhere, you'll arrive at a beautiful beach. Segmented by the broad Swartvlei Lagoon and protected from development by a buffer of fynbos-clad sand dunes, the beach has retained an appealing wild element. Sadly, apart from one or two gems, we found little to recommend close to the water.