Up and over the Koue Bokkeveld

Backroading Ceres to Citrusdal (R303)

So, you casually read the advertorial, packed the bags and hit the road. But, less than an hour in, instead of going north, the situation is fast turning south. To the front, a How’s my Driving sticker of a big-wheeler heading for the Namibian border. To the rear, another all-chrome mother of a beast bearing down fast. You grit the teeth and step on the pedal, ignoring the screams and blind rise ahead.  Something’s gone wrong somewhere - this is less idyllic weekend getaway than bit- part in a Mad Max sequel.

Folks, you can travel north of Cape Town, and you can travel north of Cape Town. Instead risking life and limb on the N17 for the pleasures of Citrusdal, why not rather try this one for size - the long, lonely and beautiful R303 between Ceres and Citrusdal. 

First things first, a pitstop in Ceres. That out the way, crank up the Ben Howard and make for Prince Alfred Hamlet. Look left, look right and cut straight through 'town' (there ain’t much of it) and hug those gorgeous curves of the Gydo Pass - now, isn’t this is what you had in mind all along? Start climbing until you reach cruising altitude at 1050m. You’re now in Koue Bokkeveld territory proper.

A vast plateau of farmland, this is apple, pear and veg country, with a nearby horizon of impressive sawtooth peaks - the Swartruggens to the east and the parched gargoyle foothills of the mighty Cederberg to the north. The eroded rock formations chiseled into the sandstone surrounds but a stark reminder of Nature’s cruel hand.

You’re now fully into the vibe. Pull over for a leg stretch at Op Die Berg - a scattering of farm buildings marking the high point on the plateau. A farm bakkie rattles past. A friendly wave versus that middle finger you got overtaking on the N17. To the left and right, signs luring you down side roads to farm cottages, cherry picking, mountain climbs and all sorts of adventure… You wanna take it slow along here, savouring the sweet offerings.

You’re on the dust now, twisting and turning, preparing for the landing into Citrusdal. Past the  Hexberg Nature Reserve you go, down the Middleberg Pass, loving every moment. You look back - smiles all round. Citrusdal’s orange trees are coming into view. Behind you, one hundred and ten kay of pure bliss.

Pick a cherry. There are a number of farms along this route offering seasonal cherry picking. Great fun for all.

Head for Matroosberg in winter for a good chance of building your snowman, 4x4 trips are offered up to the high peaks.

Don’t expect shopping malls in Op-Die-Berg, there is little more here than a few buildings.

 If you’re here during late August through to early September, you’re in for a fantastic show of wild flowers.

 Don’t be too precious about your beamer’s paintwork, some of this route is gravel.