Where elis still roam

Daytripping the Seven Passes between Knysna and George

Let's be honest, what with the tie-dye T-shirt and curio sellers, rash of gentrified real estate developments, and the clogged N2 bisecting the town, Knysna isn't quite what is used to be. To experience Old Knysna - a la Kringe in die Bos-slash-Deliverance, where gap-toothed forest folk filled their days fellling massive trees, strumming banjos and outrunning irate tuskers, you need to break out of the town and head into the forested mountains. 

Little beats the Old Passes Road for a firsthand glimpse into the natural beauty and history of this area - and while debate rages as to how many elis still roam the forests, there's an outside chance you may spot one en route. Stranger things have happened. 

Seven Passes is Bain’s original route between Knysna and George. It kicks off with the Phantom Pass winding its way up to Rheenendal. From here, it's past the Millwood Goldfields (plenty of history and forest trails here) and down the Homtini Pass to the charcoal black waters of the Homtini River - but not before you've pulled up at Totties Restaurant at the head of Rheenendal for their Sunday buffet. It's a must. 

Up and over Homtini Pass, you're now cruising through dairy farms. Green and lonely, the forest-covered Outeniqua Mountains break the horizon to the north. Onward to Karatara, a slightly surreal village where remnants of the original Knysna woodcutters and other quirky characters can be found. Karatara done, it's down again, into another dense river gorge.

At Hoekwil village, another coffee break and wedge of cheese cake is in order. Big tree walks, a generaous spread of farm accommodation and mountain bike trails will have you adding this one to your weekend bucket list. Back in the car, there's one more pass to go - this time carving deep into the belly of the Silver River gorge. Voila! that's seven under the belt: Phantom, Homtini, Swartrivier, Touw River, Karatara, Silver River, and Hoogekraal.

Forests, valleys, rivers and elephants, you’ve seen them all - ok, maybe not the elephants. 

 Stop in at Totties Restaurant in Rheenendal for Sunday lunch, a buffet meal like granma used to make. Also open throughout the week. 

 Take the detour to the Millwood Goldfields, an interesting insight to Knysna's short-lived foray into the gold rush.

Definitely take your MTB bike along for a jaunt around The Garden Route Trail Park near Karatara.

Don't expect consistent weather, you can get four seasons in one day here.

 Watch out for bush buck leaping across the road.

 Don't think you'll never see an elephant; there've been recent sightings in this area!