Ignoring the whiff of dead fish coming from the local processing plant, St Helena Bay (150km from Cape Town) is a pretty picture – a shapely bay framed by white rocks and alternating between cobalt blue and a soup of grey froth, depending on the weather. There is little immediate beach to speak of and the freezing water poses a serious fertility risk. The beaches further toward Britannia Bay and Paternoster are wild and beautiful, but sadly, like much of the West Coast, the developers have staked their hungry claim.