Tulbagh (100km from Cape Town) comprises two main parallel roads, one an architectural pleasure, the other a sunbaked stretch of buildings plying a dusty commercial trade. The town’s pride and joy is historic Church Street and the long, moody valley – an alternating slideshow of foaming spring blossom, crimson autumn rust and mountains topped with swirls of winter cream. Church Street has the greatest concentration of national monuments in the country (32); most of these were virtually flattened by a devastating earthquake in 1969, but thanks to an impressive restoration effort all are back on their feet and doing a steady trade with local and overseas tourists.