Descending the N2 from George (beware the speed cameras!), Wilderness rises up as a sweeping ocean vista, more often than not shrouded in a misty veil. The sight is so tempting and the beach so close to the road that it's possible to pull up for a dip and be back in the car without missing a beat. This very virtue is sadly also Wilderness's failing: the N2 bisects the town, separating the center and lakes from the beachfront and resulting in a somewhat disjointed atmosphere. For many years Wilderness lived up to its name, as a remote outpost asleep under a thick tangle of forest and mountain. While one can still find scattered evidence of this past, you'll need to hunt for it among the sprawl of retirement homes and holiday accommodation.